How to Commission a Custom Family Crest: A Step-by-Step Checklist

Commissioning a custom family crest is a mix of research, design and collaboration. Whether you are reviving a half-remembered emblem or starting from a blank shield, a clear process saves time and leads to a result you will be proud to pass on. This checklist walks you through each stage, from the first brief to the final print file.

1. Define the purpose and scope

Before you contact an artist, decide what the crest is for. A design for a website avatar needs to read at 32 pixels; one destined for a large framed print can carry fine detail. Think about every place you might use it: letterhead, wedding stationery, a signet ring, social media. List those uses now, because they shape the artwork.

If you have a documented coat of arms in the family, gather the paperwork. Old letters, bookplates, silverware and seals are all useful evidence. If you do not have one, you are commissioning a modern crest. That is a personal design, not an official grant of arms. If you specifically want an official grant, that is a separate formal process handled by the College of Arms in England, Wales and Northern Ireland, or the Court of the Lord Lyon in Scotland. For most family projects, a custom crest is the right route.

2. Gather references and family details

Collect anything that feels connected to your family story: surnames, places, occupations, migration routes, and symbols that matter. A family from Yorkshire might be drawn to a white rose; a family with maritime history might consider a ship, an anchor or a wave. These are starting points, not rules.

Look at historical examples for style. Public heraldry registers can be useful if you have a documented line. Be cautious with websites that sell “surname crests” — many reuse the same design for everyone with that name. Use them as inspiration only.

Build a mood board. Include colours, line weights and overall styles: medieval, Victorian, minimalist, illustrative. Add two or three images you dislike and note why. That negative feedback is often more helpful to an artist than a pile of favourites.

3. Write a clear brief for your artist

A good brief saves rounds of guesswork. Include the following:

• Purpose and formats: list every use, from web to print.
• Size and orientation: square, portrait or landscape.
• Colour palette: if you know heraldic tinctures, name them (or, argent, gules, azure, vert, sable, purpure). Otherwise describe the colours you like.
• Elements: shield, helm, mantling, crest, motto. Keep the motto short — two to four words is usually enough.
• Style: traditional, modern, woodcut, fine line.
• Text: exact spelling of the family name, motto and any dates.
• Deadline and budget range: be honest about both.
• References: attach your mood board and explain what you like about each image.

Say what is negotiable and what is not. If you have a strong attachment to a particular symbol, make that clear. If you are open to suggestions, say so. A skilled artist will ask questions; answer them fully. The more context you give, the fewer revisions you will need later.

4. Agree proofs and give focused feedback

Most commissions move through stages: a rough sketch, a refined line drawing, then a colour version. Some artists combine these. At each stage, check the details that matter.

• Is the motto spelled correctly? Check Latin or other languages with a dictionary.
• Are the proportions balanced? Does the shield look too wide, too narrow or top-heavy?
• Do the colours work together? Heraldry favours contrast: metal on colour, or colour on metal.
• Does the design read clearly at small sizes? Shrink it on screen and see.
• Are there any accidental shapes or awkward gaps?

Give feedback in one consolidated message rather than a stream of small notes. Be specific: “Could the oak leaves be larger and the acorns more distinct?” works better than “make it pop.” Ask how many revision rounds are included — two or three is typical. If you need more, expect to pay for extra time. Trust the artist on heraldic conventions; they know what will look right in the long run.

5. Receive and check your digital files

Once you approve the final proof, you should receive a set of files. Ask for the following:

• Vector files: SVG, PDF, AI or EPS. These scale to any size without losing quality.
• Raster files: PNG with a transparent background, JPEG for web, and a high-resolution TIFF for print.
• Colour versions: RGB for screen, CMYK for print. A spot colour version can be useful for professional printing.
• A simple black-and-white version for stamps, engraving or embossing.

Open each file and check it works. Test the SVG in a browser. Print a small copy to see how the detail holds up. Keep a master folder and back it up in at least two places. If the artist provides a licence or usage agreement, read it. Some retain copyright and grant you a personal-use licence; commercial use may need a separate discussion.

6. Print files and physical items

If you are ordering prints, ask about paper stock — archival matt, textured fine art, or something else — and confirm the size and framing. Always request a digital proof of the final layout before the full run. For letterhead or business cards, check that the crest still works at a small size. You may need a simplified version.

If you are printing yourself, ask for a print-ready PDF with 3mm bleed and crop marks. For large runs, a physical proof is worth the cost. Remember that screen colours and printed colours differ; a deep blue on your monitor may look slightly different on paper. That is normal, but a proof lets you adjust if needed.

Final checks before you sign off

Run through this short list before you close the project.

• Confirm you have every file format you agreed.
• Check the spelling of names and motto one last time.
• Ensure you understand the licence terms.
• Save the files and your original brief in a dedicated folder.
• Back everything up.

A well-commissioned crest is more

Photo: Michael Burrows / Pexels